Fun and Fascinating Presidential Fashion Facts

Mark Twain is noted for famously saying “clothes make the man,” but many do not know the rest of that quote. It continues hilariously and very rationally with “naked people have little or no influence on society.” That is classic Twain, but the phrase did not originate with him.

The idea of judging a book by its proverbial cover did not originate with Twain and the 19th century. The concept that the clothes a man wears may be used to make certain judgments about him originates in the Middle Ages with a Catholic priest by the name of Erasmus. Writing various social criticisms in the 1500s, he notably stated that “vestis virum facit,” in his book of proverbs. Translating to “clothes make the man,” he was commenting on an earlier work – “The Odyssey” by Homer. In the classic tale, Ulysses is described as initially unseemly until he is next seen in fine garments and having the “air of the gods.”

The concept continued to appear in many other works after that, with Shakespeare climbing on the bandwagon in “Hamlet,” noting that “apparel oft proclaims the man.” Children, too, know of the idea through the classic tale of “The Emperor’s New Clothes.”

American presidents have also had to be very conscious about the message their wardrobes send. Today, we might look at pins or tie tacks, prints on fabrics, and the colors of garments to take coded messages from our presidents. However, it was once much more complex. Since clothing is the focus of our daily work at Oak Hill Dry Cleaners, we thought we’d spend a bit of time on President’s Day learning some fun facts and details about American Presidents and the clothing choices they made that let us know the man a bit more.

George Washington’s Fashion Dilemma

As reported in an episode of American Experience explained, on “the eve of the nation’s first presidential inauguration, President-elect George Washington was preoccupied by an urgent and troublesome matter: What would he wear to his swearing-in ceremony in New York City? It was a question of unprecedented national significance.”

Not many today realize the tremendous importance of a President’s clothing, and as Dr. Linzy Brekke-Aloise of Stonehill College said, it is surprising to learn the “extent to which fashion mattered,” in the post-revolutionary era. The show went on to say that “the president’s closet was perhaps more important than any other stately room or chamber. And, arguably, no sartorial choice in American history mattered more than the first one: the inauguration suit to be worn on April 30, 1789.”

After all, he had to make a good show of things, but the availability of fine fabrics was skimpy at best. He was also working hard to “publicly sever the link with the colonial past,” by wearing American, rather than English cloth. It was then that he learned of the superfine broad cloths being produced in Connecticut by Jeremiah Wadsworth. He’d supplied the Continental Army and had started the Hartford Woolen Manufactury that had been churning out beautiful fabrics since its inception.

Washington was able to acquire material for his suite as well as premium buttons and a remarkable double-breasted suit with ten engraved buttons, fine trim, and knee-breeches was finished just in time for the inauguration. The suit was so fine, in fact, that he was ironically accused of wearing foreign-made materials because of the quality of the garments!

As an article at PBS explains, “Washington’s clothes were part of the dream for a new world order. There was a widespread belief — shared by men across the country, not just by a president — that clothes should be one of the vectors of the revolution. The clothes of all citizens could be American-made, sober, simple. Fashion would erase class difference and hide political division.”

Clothing, then, made the man, and much more.

The Most Fashionable Commanders in Chief

Clothing makes the man, and yet, not many of us know which of the presidents rank as the authentically best dressed. In the example above, we learned how much thought Washington put into his fine, inaugural look, and how even the fabric and buttons had a lot to say.

Which of our other presidents “said” a lot about themselves and current affairs through fashion? Many might automatically think of JFK, but he is not often noted as a clothes horse. Dressed by experts and depicting a laid-back style, it was his wife Jacqueline Kennedy who became a fashion icon.

Interestingly enough, historians often point to Harry Truman as their choice for most fashionable. As one wrote, “Harry Truman felt passionate about his wardrobe, and it showed. Having once owned a haberdashery (an early-20th Century menswear store) in Kansas City, Truman was well versed in fashion. In fact, business associates would go on to become his personal tailors in the White House.”

He was a big fan of shoes, too, owning almost 100 pairs during his time in the White House. He was known for his powerful double-breasted suits with oversized and peaked lapels, but he also evolved his look in the 1960s, favoring slimmer, single-breasted styles as times changed.

JFK often comes in second to Truman, but he too made statements with his fashion sense, forgoing a hat on inauguration day, opting for minimalist looks with two-button suit coats, and counting on shoulder padding to allow his jackets to easily flow around the back brace so few knew he wore. Ivy League influences were the order of the day for Jack Kennedy, but not the #3 president.

Chester A. Arthur may not be a well-known president, but in his day, he was often seen as one of the most elegantly dressed men in the public eye. Favoring frock coats, tall hats, silk accessories, and among the first to have an in-house designer (attendant in charge of curating his closet), he said much with his clothing.

We would be remiss if we skipped FDR in this list of most fashionable presidents who said a lot with their garment choices. With his bow ties, pocket squares, and cleverly chosen blue-black cape (custom made by Lewis & Thos. Saltz of Washington) he was a man apart from the rest. He rarely dressed in a boring or plain manner, and his choices often drew the eye. Clearly, this befits the man who could lead the U.S. out of the Great Depression and through World War II.

And while Chester A. Arthur relied on an attendant for his wardrobe, many presidents also looked to their personal valets.

The Inside Man

Almost every president has had a “valet” as part of his household staff. Sadly, Washington, Madison, and Tyler relied on slaves as their personal attendants, but even then, they were looked at as confidantes and key members of the team. As one article from White House historians said, “Presidential valets witnessed the most private of moments of their boss’s lives,” and it would be Richard Nixon to be the last to bring his own valet with him into the White House.

Today, they are “specially selected members of the military assigned to the president or are regular members of the White House staff…Responsible for everything from the shine of the presidential shoe to the care of White House children and grandchildren, these men shared a unique role in White House history.”

Clearly, they too are part of how presidential fashion translates to clothing that makes the man and sends the message.

What Does Your Clothing Say?

We still put a lot of emphasis on fashion statements – whether presidential or our own – and one way to say a great deal about yourself is to ensure your clothing is always in the best condition possible. While we have not yet worked on any presidential garments, at Oak Hill Dry Cleaner we see our fair share of high-end fashion and everyday workwear. Each piece is important to us because it belongs to a customer who is trusting us to take great care and help them put their best foot forward. If you have any type of garment or household good that you want to keep in good shape and help you make your strongest statements, just get in touch!

We hope you enjoyed these details about presidential fashion and look forward to seeing you soon.